Ben & Lauren's Adventure Journal

England's Coast to Coast Route

2011-06-07T14:08:00.000-07:00

A number of people told us he was the youngest to complete the Coast to Coast route, at 15 months old. We're not sure. And that's certainly not why we went. It was a blast!

Want to see more from our trip? Here are 200 more photos over at Flickr.

Mineral King Loop #2

2009-07-06T19:51:00.000-07:00

For the second year in a row, we've done a 2 1/2 day backpacking trip in Mineral King over the 4th of July weekend. This area of Sequoia National Park is accessible by a narrow, windy, dead-end road that takes you to what we refer to as "Backpacker's Paradise."

Last year, we did the southern 30 mile loop of Franklin Pass, Soda Creek, Lost Canyon and returning over Sawtooth Pass (trip report and photos). This year, we hiked the northern loop including Timber Gap, Black Rock Pass, Little Five Lakes, and repeating the section with Lost Canyon and Sawtooth Pass.

As usual, it's intoxicating to get away and reflect, cut loose from all responsibility and soak in the magnificence of the Sierra. Our photos, of course, do no justice.

But our trip wasn't without challenge as well. This year, our loop was similar in mileage, although a bit more rugged, with significantly more elevation gain and loss. Lauren's new insulin also took some getting used to, which slowed our progress down when her blood sugars were too low to hike. Hiking can take a lot of effort, but we love it, and love experiencing these spectacular wild places.

We met a few interesting folks, one of them being Sean, while on our way into the Little Five Lakes Basin. When we passed, I said "Nice pack," and we stopped to chat about sewing gear. He's showing off the Ray-Way pack that he sewed with additional zipper and ice axe loops of his own design.

Our lightweight packs and gear that we sewed for the A.T. are still going strong. Even though we carry a shelter, the weather was mild so we didn't use it either night — but we don't regret carrying it since it's only one pound. This time we also carried an ice axe, which wasn't entirely necessary, but it was nice to have for a couple of the snowfields.

Although our weekend was exciting, it might not compare to our friends Matt & Kim who stayed here in town to deliver their healthy baby, Noah. Congratulations guys! Can't wait to meet him.

4th of July Trip

2009-07-02T12:42:00.000-07:00

We're headed out in less than an hour for some fresh air, adventure and refreshment in the Sierra. Looks like the weather is going to be 70s high /30s low. Alrght!

Here's a interactive map from NOAA where you can click on the exact spot you'll be for a local forecast;

Home

2009-06-20T17:57:00.001-07:00

Lauren and I watched this movie online last week. Jaw-dropping footage of our planet, with slow-panning aerial shots that depict the landscape and inhabitants of earth in a unique and beautiful way.

The movie is 1.5 hours, and available over here on YouTube. Make sure you watch it full screen in HD.

If the alarmist tone turns you off... you can always watch it with some other music on. We live in an amazing place!

Springer Fever

2009-04-30T10:20:00.000-07:00

Yeah, it's that time of year. Exactly two years ago we set out on the Approach Trail to the Appalachian Trail from Amicalola Falls State Park in Georgia. I wouldn't exactly say that I'd want to be out there hiking this year (I love what we're up to right now!), but remembering those first few weeks on the trail sure is enticing.

April 30th is, and I imagine will always be, a special date.

GPSies for the JMT

2009-04-28T12:33:00.000-07:00

I can't say that I enjoy hiking with a GPS, but the technology sure is fascinating. GPSies is a slick little web site for you to post and swap your travel routes.

If you follow this link to the John Muir Trail , you can see where Lauren and I will be hiking this summer, and even explore some photos that other people have taken in the area. You can also search through their growing database of hikes in your desired area, which come complete with an elevation profile and time estimate.

ADZPCTKO 2009

2009-04-26T17:45:00.000-07:00

This weekend we headed to Lake Morena for our second Annual Day Zero Pacific Crest Trail Kick Off. The sendoff event for the current class of PCT hikers is basically a great excuse to get together with friends and enjoy some crisp mountain air and walk a few miles of the trail. As always, it was great to catch up with Comet & Nicole and Clearwater.

Our highlight was when our A.T. trail angels Walt and Pat (Waynesboro, VA) appeared on the trail during a morning stroll, having kept it a secret from us that they drove across the country in the PCT XPRS to attend the kickoff.

Besides catching up with friends, we enjoyed the home made gear contest, Squatch's fourth movie Walked, Shooter's rough cut of Tell it on the Mountain and a few trail seminars. I also managed to grab a pretty good sunburn under the clear dessert sky.

Good luck, class of 2009.

Another Route to Katahdin

2009-04-22T20:01:00.000-07:00

I like the new-ish feature on Google Maps that calculates walking routes and times between landmarks. Should take 18 days and 10 hours to walk from Springer Mountain, Georgia to Mt. Katahdin, Maine. Could have used this and shaved about a thousand miles from our trip.

There you go. Now we know.

Adventure Travel with Children

2009-04-21T09:42:00.000-07:00

In preparation for our 2009 John Muir Trail hike, my ~~research~~ daydreaming led to the travel log of the Aiken/Widom Family, who completed the JMT together in 2007. (photo gallery)

Actually, the JMT was just the final leg of their year off adventure, which included world travel with their 10 and 12 year old children to Europe, Africa, South America and Asia.

Alex and Jennifer have been taking ambitious trips with their children for many years, and have generously posted some essays from their experience:

The $800 Million Ride

2009-04-19T16:53:00.001-07:00

Today I picked my Uncle Phil and cousin Blake up from LAX and was able to spend a few hours with them as they prepared for their cross country bike tour. After driving them to their hotel, we unpacked their bikes and then headed to the Omelette Parlor for some brunch and story swapping.

Beginning Tuesday, they will dip their tires in the Pacific at Newport Beach and spend the next 32 days making their way across the country, ending north of Boston, MA. In their words, they'll be learning from past trip experience and won't be pushing too hard, especially early on. They expect to cover over 120 miles per day, maybe averaging a pace of 15 MPH.

Phil called it his “$800,000,000 ride,” explaining that if he had a terminal disease with a short life expectancy, he wouldn't blink an eye about spending a ridiculous fortune just to make it happen.

Priorities. I love it.

If you're interested in following their trip, you can get (hopefully) daily updates over at philandblake.blogspot.com.

Deep Creek with the Family

2009-04-12T09:19:00.000-07:00

On Friday we took a hike down to Deep Creek. Crossing the chilly creek took a bit of courage, but everyone made it easily.

We had the big hot tub to ourselves for a few relaxing hours, and enjoyed a perfect day.

The Southern California landscape of dessert scrub, Joshua Trees and massive boulders were fun to explore with family used to the green grass yards on the east coast.

Biker Band

2009-04-07T08:04:00.000-07:00

Heard about these guys on NPR today.

The band Blind Pilot literally rode a pair of bicycles to success. The folk-pop outfit, formed by singer-guitarist Israel Nebeker and drummer Ryan Dobrowski, has taken two bike tours, playing its music all along the West Coast. The first of these two tours was supposed to run from Vancouver all the way down to the Mexican border. Unfortunately, the trip was cut short when the band's bikes were stolen outside San Francisco's Museum of Modern Art...

2009 is Matt's Year

2009-04-05T16:03:00.000-07:00

Just got a call from Matt a.k.a Hiking Matt, who is finally making his dream of an Appalachian Trail thru-hike a reality in 2009.

He's at Neels Gap in Georgia, after having set out from Springer Mountain Georgia on April 1st. Matt said that hiking this year might not be the most 'responsible' thing, due to his fledgling seasonings business, but he couldn't live with putting it off another year. Said something about life being too short to make excuses or worry about finances.

Amen, Matt. And safe journey to you!

Almost Like Taking a Leak in the Woods

2009-03-20T15:35:00.000-07:00

For all those who competed in the 2007 Pee-A-Tree competition on the Appalachian Trail, here is the perfect urinal for your home.

You're welcome, Hey Man Crew.

Wakeup Accountability

2009-03-04T21:30:00.000-08:00

I am publicly posting my wakeup times, so I can embarrass myself into getting up every day at 6:30a. It seems that no matter when I go to bed I've been rolling out of bed around 7:30a, and I really want to make better use of my mornings. You can watch the drama here as it unfolds.

Daytum

Daytum

Daytum

(You can track your own nerdy data and statistics by requesting an account over at Daytum).

How's Your Commute?

2009-02-24T13:13:00.000-08:00

I sure don't mind mine, which consists of walking across the living room, but this one seems pretty exciting...

Look Outside

2009-02-09T13:32:00.000-08:00

I'm grinning ear-to-ear... right now, it's “snailing” outside!

What's that you ask?

Why snow-hailing, of course! In Los Angeles, California.

Deep Creek

2009-02-09T13:10:00.000-08:00

Had a quick getaway to the Deep Creek Hot Springs over the weekend with my friend Mylon. I've been wanting to go for a while, since I heard it was one of the SoCal highlights along the PCT.

We forded the swollen Deep Creek, to gain access to the warm pools, perfect for hours of soaking. The ominous weather held off to just a few sprinkles of rain, although we would have welcomed snow.

Mylon and I didn't quite know what to expect, since we heard it's a popular nudist spot. My friend Josh put it this way, “Usually the nudist types who frequent hot springs are not the people you'd like to see with their clothes off.” But the 10 people we encountered had their clothes on, so no stories to tell.

If you're thinking about going, don't. It's really lame.
Okay, it's not, but don't tell too many people about it.

Sleddog Sightings

2009-01-31T15:00:00.000-08:00

Today I received a call from a friend who currently lives in Bellingham, WA, who asked to remain anonymous. All I can say is that we met him on the A.T. and his name rhymes with "Nearwater."

My friend could not believe his eyes, but was calling to report that he has now twice seen Sleddog, the trail legend of 2007, on the streets in Bellingham.

Since Sleddog has the ability to attach himself and take advantage of anyone who directs attention his way, my friend has not yet spoken to him. From distant observation, Sleddog appears to be in a transient situation, living on meals from the mission and relying on Bellingham's programs to help homeless.

It would be fascinating to hear what he's been up to.

John Muir Trail in the Works for 2009

2009-01-31T12:10:00.000-08:00

Lauren and I are planning our big adventure for 2009. With her limited vacation time, it's kinda tough to see family and plan an extended adventure in the same year. So we're planning the trip now, and we'll have to play it by ear for the holidays. Jobs…

We're looking at a 2 week, southbound trip of the 212 mile John Muir Trail, from Yosemite Valley to Mount Whitney. I think we'll actually complete it in about 12 days.

Right now, we have the Tom Harrison maps spread out on the floor to get a birds eye view of the trail.

More details here, as the plans unfold!

- - - - - -

Lauren and I are exploring our options for getting to the trailhead in Yosemite Valley. If you live in L.A. / SoCal and you might be up for a road trip in late summer, we'd be willing to pay for all of your gas to and from Yosemite. Please contact me directly for more details (thompson dot ben at gmail).

Trail Life

2009-01-15T15:23:00.000-08:00

I've been enjoying Ray Jardine's re-worked edition of Beyond Backing, now called Trail Life. Lauren picked it up for me as my Christmas gift, and I've been taking my time soaking it in as nighttime reading before bed.

The main difference in the format is that it now includes hundreds of color photos of Ray and Jenny's adventures. Also different, is that Ray presents most ideas in a "This worked for us, it might not work for you..." tone, which may ruffle a few less feathers. Personally, I didn't mind the how-to tone of the previous format, but this one works as well, and may be less off-putting to the doubters.

I'm only partway done, but am looking forward to reading a section near the end where Jenny writes about their experiences from her perspective, which I don't believe she's previously done.

Great job on the new book Ray and Jenny.

Mexico Trip

2009-01-01T13:38:00.000-08:00

From December 26-30, Lauren and I spent time helping out in a small Mexican village. Our group of eighteen traveled about four hours south of the border on the Baja peninsula, to the town of Vicente Guerrero to spend time at the Welcome Home preschool.

Without the preschool, parents work in the field and a young child either sits nearby all day, or an older sibling has to stay home from their schooling to take care of their younger sibling.

Before meeting the children, our team tackled a bunch of projects: Replacing 5 toilets, fixing a sink, replacing 5 termite infested window frames, sanitizing crates of small toys and children's furniture, cutting a hole in a wall so we could hang a door and close off another, replacing linoleum tiles, organizing the donation pantry, building bunk beds, painting a sign, fixing drywall ceiling and collecting donations.

By far, the best part of the trip was spending time with the kids. We were able to ride along with them on the bus to see where they lived, eat with them in the dining room and play with them on the playground.

The children and school staff were grateful for our help and encouragement. On the last morning, we were treated to a small concert (below):

More photos from the trip can be seen at our flickr site.

Musical Road Remix

2008-12-09T14:48:00.000-08:00

In followup to our Musical Roadtrip post, here is the actual Honda commercial that the road was created for.

Originally built by Honda, the road got a lot of complaints from neighbors, so it was removed shortly after we visited. And then people complained because it was gone. So the city rebuilt it somewhere else. In other words, if you're up for a road trip for 30 seconds of amusement, dreams still come true in Lancaster, CA.

Tumblewagon

2008-11-20T15:17:00.000-08:00

I just exchanged emails with Nathan from the Tumlewagon family. Their web site explains:

Welcome to the website of our life on the road. We’re a family of three, living in an RV and making our way around the country for a year or so.

It looks like their taking a grand tour of the country, all while taking on freelance web development projects. Love it!

Dick Proenneke

2008-11-07T20:49:00.000-08:00

A few years ago I read the account of Dick Proenneke with great fascination and admiration. At age 51, he built a cabin by hand in a remote part of Alaska, then spent the next 35 years meticulously documenting his solitude with photography, video footage and writings.

His narrated video is available on DVD, and this clip is well worth a look if you have 10 minutes.

Orange

2008-10-02T11:09:00.000-07:00

October is here, and it was 99°F yesterday in SoCal. I'm dreaming about those fall colors, and the crisp air of the northeast.

K-Day + 1

2008-09-27T12:45:00.000-07:00

One year ago today we summited Katahdin, completing our 2,174 mile hike of the Appalachian Trail.

This morning, after contacting Safari-26, She-Ra, He-Man and Turbo with congratulations, Lauren and I read a couple pages from our journals and reflected a bit on the decisions, growth and adventures we've experienced together.

Today it only seemed fitting to go for a hike, so I took four kids from the neighborhood for a morning climb in Griffith Park. I've been wanting to spend more time with kids with absent fathers, but today was the first time I actually put a plan together. Rewarding stuff.

Musical Road

2008-09-21T21:34:00.000-07:00

On Saturday we took a quick road trip to Lancaster, CA to drive on the only musical road in North America. Just in time, too. It wont last more than another week, since the neighbors are getting riled up about the noise and traffic.

Fam Trip

2008-09-14T21:46:00.000-07:00

Nice weekend trip with Dad and bros, showing them a sliver of the magnificent Sierra.

It was great they could make it all the way out here to visit in California; they were into it much more than I expected. Good times.

Simmering Sespe

2008-09-02T21:53:00.000-07:00

Spent the Labor day weekend in the Sespe Wilderness. We made a 42 mile loop despite the river mostly dry, temperatures above 100°, and the hot springs too hot to enjoy. And due to mixed communication, we left Lauren's shoes at home, so she hiked the whole thing in crocs. (Her idea, not mine!)

Two days, and two massive blisters later, we got back to the car early and headed down to a hotel in Ventura to relax. Lauren was a champ about it, though.

NPR: Big Chill on the Appalachian Trail

2008-08-10T15:21:00.000-07:00

Last weekend NPR had a 3 minute segment on the Half-Gallon Challenge at the halfway point on the A.T. To hear, follow this link and then click listen now.

I demolished a box of Hershey's Neopolitan at this spot in 2007 going head-to-head against Sunshine.

Doritos

2008-08-04T15:00:00.000-07:00

I'm not convinced that mice are the best pets to have running about in my kitchen. Luckily thru-hiker shelter tricks work at home too. An empty Doritos bag hung from the edge of a counter is all it takes. Tasty cheese crumbs at the bottom at bedtime, a fuzzy little mouse in the morning.

Bridge

2008-08-01T16:42:00.001-07:00

I only heard a handful of news headlines on the trail last year. There was a TV on in the laundromat in Kent, CT and I remember standing there in my rain gear watching the coverage of the Minneapolis bridge collapse.

Guess that was a year ago now.

We went to Minneapolis last weekend to visit family and I saw that very bridge without realizing it until someone told me afterwards.

Adrian's Tour Divide

2008-07-10T14:48:00.000-07:00

My friend Adrian just finished the Tour Divide race, a bike ride along the Continental Divide from Canada to Mexico. That's a long time in the saddle. Congrats Adrian!

Adrian writes:

[These photos were] taken along the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, from Banff, Canada to Antelope Wells, New Mexico (border of Mexico) from June 13 to July 7. This is the longest mountain bike route in the world at 2711 miles with 200,000 ft of climbing. But don't worry, half of it was downhill :-) My odometer clocked it at 2830 miles with the one detour I had in Grand Teton National Park to go to a bike shop for repairs, and the many times I made a wrong turn along the way. 15 riders lined up in Banff to race the route, 14 guys and one girl. 6 guys dropped out, 6 guys finished so far, and 3 riders are still riding in the monsoonal rains of July in New Mexico.

Mineral King

2008-07-07T07:23:00.001-07:00

Mineral King is one of the least visited parts of Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park, tucked away east of Fresno at the end of a serpentine road. From Three Rivers CA, you drive 23 miles — and most of an hour — gaining 6,000 feet to a parking area in alpine meadows. (The parking lot looks like an auto-show. Everyone's hoods are propped up to keep marmots from getting trapped inside and wrecking the engine).

For the 4th of July weekend, our 30 mile loop took us over the Great Western Divide twice, over two high mountain passes, through meadows with braided streams, past remote lakes and nonstop views.

The meadow pictured above was so surreal, it looked like some kind of manicured golf course.

On the second day, we stopped by 2pm so we could set up camp and take it easy by an alpine lake. We took in the evening light show with some hot chocolate, and then directed our attention to the sky for the stars to emerge.

Our final climb was 11,630' Sawtooth Pass. The morning light was unusual and then we began to smell forest fires burning to the east.

We only met a few other backpackers out there, and camped in areas out of reach of mosquitoes. A holiday weekend well spent.

In the 1960s, the area was going to be made into a 'Second Tahoe' ski resort developed by Disney. Fortunately it remains mostly inaccessible and pristine today. Here are some more details about the scrapped project and other vintage Sky Crown logo concepts.

And if you need a real-time vacation, here's a link to the Mineral King webcam.

Billy Goat

2008-06-25T07:48:00.000-07:00

Today Billy Goat was highlighted in the LA Times.

Virtual Offce

2008-06-11T10:37:00.000-07:00

Since back from the trail I've been working on taking my design company, Studiofluid, to the next level. The most interesting aspect has been learning the non-creative side of running a creative business. So far, I've been quite pleased with the adventure.

I work from a few different places, but my favorite spot is the cafe, Sabor Y Cultura, down the street from where we live.

The atmosphere is relaxed, with nice people behind the bar and throughout the generous space. It's quiet enough to provide a great atmosphere for creativity, but it's also bustling enough that conversations among patrons are natural and taking a phone call is perfectly acceptable. And for a special treat, you can't beat their Mexican Mocha.

I try to head down here at least a couple times a week, for some focused creativity. I use the complimentary wifi, but disable my laptop for extended bursts to keep me on task, with a nifty little app called Freedom.

Bucket

2008-06-08T21:08:00.000-07:00

I thought it was a small bout of food poisoning that had me feeling woozy for a couple days last week, but now that Lauren has come down with the same thing, it's clearly not.

Actually, it's quite similar to the stomach bug that we both respectively battled on the trail north of Pearisburg, exactly one year ago. We learned countless things about each other on the trip, and how to treat the other during hard times was definitely on the summer's syllabus.

I can't stand to be crowded or over-cared for, but certainly appreciate knowing someone is there when I yell "bucket!"

Lauren, on the other hand, will take all the TLC she can get.

So I'm sitting beside her with my head on her forehead, making sure she takes plenty of fluids, while I'm watching a streaming version of Frontline's Storm Over Everest.

Memorial Day 2008

2008-05-27T07:58:00.000-07:00

This Memorial Day a few friends and I had an unforgettable trip through the High Sierra playground. Normally by the end of May, the weather is warm and balmy with lingering snowpack. But this year, winter conditions were in full effect.

I cut the year's first tracks up and over Glen Pass (11,978') and through the Rae Lakes basin.

Using an ice axe we safely navigated through some treacherous conditions. I particularly enjoyed the way that these situations demanded my complete attention, putting me in a focused and fully present state of mind.

In lower elevations the trip began with a chilly rain.

But as we climbed higher, the temperature dropped and the precipitation changed to thick piles of accumulating snow.

Friends, adventure, challenge, scenery… easily one of best adventures ever.

Pemmican Bars Revisited

2008-05-15T14:48:00.000-07:00

When we hiked the trail, we ate a lot of Bear Valley Pemmican Bars. Lauren's parents helped us find a bunch of them by buying cases at REI and Whole Foods in the greater Philadelphia/NJ area.

Somehow when we finished, we had scores of these things still laying around. After eating one or two per each day of the summer, I figured I would want to give them away.

But nearly seven months later, I guess I still eat about four or five a week. In fact, I'm getting down to the bottom of my Pemmican Bar stash, and am actually surprised that I still enjoy them. I can't believe they've lasted this long.

May/June ATJ

2008-05-11T17:48:00.000-07:00

The latest Appalachian Trail Journeys magazine just came out which had the list of 2007 hikers who completed the trail. Seeing the 'regular' names of hikers we knew only by trail names was entertaining.

Strange but not unexpected was seeing number who claimed to have hiked the entire trail yet certainly didn't. I respect people hiking on their own terms, but to skip around and then posture as a thru-hiker is still remarkably lame.

Tucked away is also a spread with a few of my wildflower photos, followed by a page with a few taken by our friend He-Man.

Summit Photos

2008-04-30T15:31:00.000-07:00

All along the trail, hostels and establishments that cater to hikers usually have a photo wall of past hikers on the summit of Katahdin. Places like the Kincora, Haven's Budget Inn and The Inn at the Long Trail have quite a collection going.

Earlier this year we made postcards of our summit photo and send a bunch to family and friends that we met along the way. Maybe we're hanging up on the ceiling of the Kincora by now too.

ADZPCTKO 2008

2008-04-28T17:12:00.000-07:00

We've never been down to the PCT Kickoff (Annual Day Zero PCT KickOff), but this year we had a great excuse. To see our friend Clearwater off for the start of his 2600 mile thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail.

Pictured here are some of the 150+ hikers attempting to hike the trail from end to end in 2008. It was a mellow festival with about 500 people gathered at Lake Morena, some who we'd met on the A.T. last summer... Matt, Honey & Bear from the cabin in Maine, Chuck Snorris & Tigger.

My highlight was hearing Eric Ryback give a slide presentations from his 1970 thrhu-hike, complete with his original Kodachromes. I was also impressed with the general mellow and friendly atmosphere, and the organization of the food, activities and speaker panels. And listening to Squatch with his improv humor made for some great times.

On Sunday, we drove the rest of the way to the Mexican border and dropped off Clearwater to start his journey.

After a few great days together and some goodbyes, and loaded with five liters of water, Clearwater headed north, unaware of the 6 pound watermelon we had stashed into his pack. I keep laughing out loud imagining him finding it after lugging it for 20 miles.

Sunshine Expedition

2008-04-23T15:40:00.000-07:00

I got an email this week from our friend Redwood.

Joined by his girlfriend Jodi, they will paddle 1500 miles from the Florida Panhandle to the keys, and then walk the 1300 Florida Trail back to where they started. They'll be keeping a web journal called the Sunshine Expedition. Sounds fun.

They don't have much content up yet, but it looks like they're sewing lightweight gear like we use, to lighten up on this adventure.

VA Plates

2008-04-22T12:47:00.000-07:00

If you live in Virginia, you can now get your very own Appalachian Trail license plate. Two of them have McAfee Knob and you can vote for your favorite version.

The don't have my favorite version though.

Lauren's Hiking Song

2008-04-18T08:00:00.000-07:00

Lauren had a few songs bouncing in her head this summer too.

She made up this one in Virginia as we approached a weekend stop with her sister in Leesburg. It wasn't as much of a song as it was a rallying-chant that she used to encourage herself up steep hills, with plenty of pauses between words to catch her breath.

I... can not wait... to see... My sister,
My sister... and Jason... My sister and Jason.
I... can not wait... to see... My sister,
Amanda and Jason... Amanda and Jason,
*A *and *J!

*Fist pumping in the air

Soundtrack of the Summer

2008-04-16T21:23:00.000-07:00

We intentionally did not bring headphones or music on the trail, so we could be present and immersed in the experience of the trail.

Sometimes when hiking, a song would pop into my head anyway. Early on in the journey it might be "Georgia on my Mind" by Ray Charles among other songs that I just don't remember.

But Johnny Cash seemed to make his way into a high percentage of my mental playlist. I think there is something about the cadence of his music, and the way he vividly describes the American landscape that links his music to the trail for me.

"Tennessee Stud," came into mind often, but after meeting Winton Porter at the Walasi-Yi, the song that I couldn't shake was:

Drifting Thoughts

2008-03-26T20:49:00.000-07:00

I been thinking about the A.T. lately. It's not triggered by anything in particular. It's just where my mind goes when I want to rest.

Grand Canyon 2008

2008-03-25T16:47:00.000-07:00

We went to the Grand Canyon over the weekend, which was a first for me.

On Saturday, we hiked down the South Kaibab Trail to the bottom to the Colorado River, soaking in some amazing panoramas. I was blown away by how many banded layers of rock you pass, and how long they must have taken to accumulate.

At the bottom we took an hour break and ended up hanging out for lunch at Phantom Ranch.

In the afternoon we climbed up the Bright Angel Trail. I think the trip was about 5,000' elevation loss and gain over about 17 or 18 miles. It all took a little over 8 hours including breaks.

Great way to spend a 'work' day.

(Jott from Ben Thompson) Hi, today I am calling fr...

2008-03-17T17:28:00.001-07:00

Well it's a free service afterall, but the signature line when posting to a blog is obscenely long...

Sent via Jott:

Hi, today I am calling from a new service that I found out about called jott.com, it's just a [the] kind of service I would have been looking for when I had(?) [hiked] the trial(?) [trail] last year, you can call and leave a 30 second voice mail which is transcribed and it can be e-mailed to you, or you can tell it to post to a blog such as Blogger like I have done here. I am just trying it out, but so far I am pretty impressed.

[revisions made by me online afterwards]

Ben Thompson

What is Jott?

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Appalachian Adaptation

2008-02-28T18:38:00.000-08:00

Looks like Robert Redford is going ahead with the Walk in the Woods adaptation, afterall.

I can think of plenty of reasons why this could have a negative impact on the trail. The only upside I can think of would be a heightened awareness of our natural treasures in the public consciousness. And and maybe additional funding if Redford chooses to give a little back to the A.T., unlike the book's author.

I remain skeptical.

Here's a link to my previously posted comments about the book.

Will Work for Beer

2008-02-22T21:56:00.000-08:00

On one sweltering June afternoon we emerged from the trail at a road crossing in southwest Virginia, and took a short roadwalk to a nearby convenience store.

Over a few cold drinks and junk food, we exchanged pleasant conversation with the proprietor. Then, the sawmill across the street emptied for the day and we witnessed a fascinatingly disturbing cultural phenomenon; the 4pm beer run.

The scene goes something like this. Two guys hop out of the pickup and leave the ignition running. They make a beeline for the back cooler, plunk down their hard earned cash at the register and each walk out with a six or twelve-pack in hand, presumably to finish on a Thursday evening before returning to work the next day. One car after the next.

Sounds like a tired stereotype, but unfortunately, we witnessed it first hand.

Gear Review: Patagonia Nine Trails Shorts

2008-02-18T16:29:00.001-08:00

Patagonia nailed it with their nine trails shorts.

The blend of 86% polyester/14% spandex is what I would consider to be an ideal material for hiking shorts.

They're extremely soft and have a generous stretch, which perform amazingly under thru-hiking conditions. They wring out well, dry unbelievably quickly and breathe nicely in warm weather. I wore them nearly every waking hour and never got tired of them, and had absolutely zero chaffing problems.

After 5 million steps, mine are still going strong. I am considering buying another pair just to have on hand, since the best products are inevitably discontinued.

My favorite feature was the three zippered pockets, which securely handled snacks, flashlight, money and other small items that I did not want to lose.

The only complaint would be the liner they come with, but a pair of scissors easily took care of that.

7.1 oz (Men L) 3.8 oz (Women S) with undie-liner removed.

At $52, they are pricey, but I felt a worthwhile investment for a thru-hike.

Drips vs. Drops

2008-02-17T17:15:00.000-08:00

On our first rainy night of the trip, Lauren and I chose a protected site, climbed into our tarp, and watched and listened in awe as a thunderstorm blasted through.

By the morning, the ferocity of the storm had passed, and we were engulfed in a thick fog that reduced visibility to about 50 feet. The pitter-patter on our tarp lulled us back to sleep and made a nice excuse for a late start.

Finally by 8am we decided it was time to face a day in the rain. We spent a little extra time putting on our rain gear and breaking camp.

Once on the trail, we realized that we had made a rookie mistake. It wasn't actually raining; instead the leaves had been collecting condensation, releasing heavy drips every so often. We quickly overheated in out unnecessary rain gear.

After a mistake like this we quickly learned to tell the difference between drops and drips.

Reflecting

2008-02-10T17:37:00.000-08:00

On the trail, Lauren and I each kept a daily journal, that we wrote in before going to bed. At the time we were unaware what the other was writing about, and now post-tail we've been taking our time going through and sharing them with each other. It's quite an enlightening experience to relive the same events through the memoirs of another.

Today we went to a coffee shop and continued our journal recap, making it to mile 430 in northern Tennessee.

It is rewarding to reflect on our early trail experiences and to so clearly see our character development... to see our trail rhythm and teamwork establish, to see how Lauren's mile-driven mentality eased over time, and to remember those physical hurdles I encountered early on.

I feel so blessed to have been able to make this incredible journey in 2007. It was an investment in ourselves, our marriage, and our future. I also am so grateful that we made the commitment to document our highs and lows so faithfully.

Andy's Great Western Loop

2008-02-09T20:32:00.000-08:00

While we were hiking our 2,174 miles this summer, Andrew Skurka was tackling a 6,875 mile journey of his own, the so-called Great Western Loop. Lauren and I took the LA Metro Rail to Long Beach yesterday to hear Andy give an overview of his trip.

As a thru-hiker, it is fascinating for me to hear fellow hikers tackle the all encompasing question, "So, how was your trip?" I mean, how do you begin to sum up a trip of such magnitude, with all of the intense highs and lows?

Andy is an organized presenter, and his photography is quite good, which meant the 50 minutes went by too quickly for me. I think Andy did a good job of conveying the exuberance of great moments, and what it feels like to push through intense adversity. I think I would have enjoyed hearing more about the connection he felt to the landscape.

In 2006, when Andy was giving a recap in SoCal about his Sea-to-Sea hike, I took the opportunity to go for a day hike with him in the San Gabriels. Andy is a focused and driven person with an approachable demeanor, and I very much enjoyed my time with him.

Congratulations on accomplishing your goal, Andy.

Back into the Hills

2008-02-02T14:37:00.000-08:00

This morning Lauren and I went out for our first real* hike since finishing the trail. We went out for 6 mile loop, on a fire road that looks over Glendale and the San Gabriel mountains. We easily handled the climb, and were encouraged that our trail footwork was still sharp for the dicey descent.

*morning walks in Griffith Park, and the woods in New Jersey, notwithstanding.

I'm Feelin It

2008-01-29T14:21:00.000-08:00

I realized today that my left big toe is mostly not-numb anymore. That's about four months of recoup time for a common trail side-effect.

Candida

2008-01-28T07:13:00.000-08:00

After several weeks on the trail, Lauren was probably right around her ideal weight, but by the end, she had gained around 30 pounds. Somewhere around the halfway point of our hike, Lauren began losing muscle tone, gaining weight and feeling bloated.

Clearly some of that gain would be expected with muscle growth, but that still didn't explain everything, and became an increasingly frustrating aspect of our summer for Lauren. While most other hikers were jumping in at the AYCE buffets, and losing significant weight, she was eating modestly and becoming increasingly concerned about her own physique.

This became a point of tension for us, both on the trail, and in the months following. Then, about two weeks ago, Lauren remembered a friend from the past who was diagnosed with Candida and that was the breakthrough that she needed.

Candida is a yeast that each of us have in our systems, typically in balance, but if it grows out of control, it can cause problems.

The more Lauren researched Candida, the more things began to make sense. Below is a list from Dr. John Dommisse of things to avoid for treating Candida, and description of how Lauren's regimen was essentially the opposite.

Avoid sugars - With a name like Figgy, and her half pound of figs each day, this sounds like the perfect food for the Candida to multiply out of control
Avoid starches - Hiking 20+ mile per day without starches? Not likely.
Increase saturated fats - Flax oil and sardines didn't make it into our trail diet.
Avoid Antibiotics - After the tick incident in New York, a two week round of antibiotics probably polished of any of the remaining 'good bacteria' that may have been keeping her intestines in check.

For two weeks now, Lauren has been eating no fruit and absolutely no sugar, wine, vinegar, yeast, coffee, or black tea. She is also taking oil of oregano and probiotics to reestablish the internal balance. After the first week we didn't notice any results, but after the second week Lauren has lost 6 pounds.

It feels good to be finally making progress.

2008 Companion

2008-01-24T06:31:00.000-08:00

If you're thinking about hiking the trail in 2008, you'll probably carry a data book to help calculate mileage and find services in town.

Most people carry the A.T.C. companion or the Thru-hiker's Handbook (formerly by Wingfoot, now published by Bob McCaw). I also heard a rumor that Whiteblaze is publishing a guide book, but was unable to verify that.

One very important factor to consider when purchasing your guidebook is what the cover looks like. I personally think that the 2008 cover of the A.T.C. companion looks the best, but maybe that's just me.

We carried the Wingfoot guide in 2007 and were happy with the data for the southern half of the trail, but it is common knowledge that Wingfoot has not set foot on the trail in over 10 years, and the northern half of the handbook was strewn with misinformation.

- - - -

UPDATE:
"A.T. Thru-Hikers' Companion" is published by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, however it is compiled, written, and edited by volunteers of the Appalchian Long Distance Hikers Association (ALDHA).

April Plans and ADZPCTKO

2008-01-20T16:55:00.000-08:00

It was nice to hear from our friend, Clearwater, who contacted us last week. He will be hiking the PCT in 2008 ("at least California," he says), and wanted to know if we can take him to the trailhead in Campo, CA.

He booked his flight for mid-April, and will stay with us in Los Angeles for a couple days for final preparations. Then we'll drive a couple hours to the PCT monument at the Mexican border.

If it all works out, we may be able to attend ADZPCTKO (Annual Day Zero, PCT Kick Off). And if the planets are in alignment, we may actually be able to walk the 20 miles into Day Zero with Clearwater.

Wheels in L.A.

2008-01-09T23:02:00.000-08:00

We gave away our car before leaving for our thru-hike and have been fortunate to not to have needed our own since arriving back to Los Angeles. For the last two months, we've had an unbelievable streak of car-sitting for generous traveling friends, so Lauren has been using their cars to get to work.

I've been doing quite well on my new bike, although riding a fixed gear is like learning to ride a bicycle all over again.

Tonight my friend Austin reminded me about Flexcar. Here in Los Angeles, an annual membership of $35 gets you access to car rentals on a micro level, just $5 per hour. Their locations map shows that I live just one block from two available flexcars ( a "sports car" and a "wagon").

All this convenience, and I don't even have to worry about gas, insurance, maintenance or parking. Pretty sweet deal. I'm going to have to check this out.

- - - -

UPDATE: When I checked the cars in person, the "sports car" was a Mini Cooper, and the "wagon" was a Scion Xb.

ATJ Profile

2008-01-02T17:22:00.000-08:00

Our friends Sally and Ellen at from the AT Boundary submitted our names to be profiled in an upcoming Appalachian Trail Journey Magazine. The brief article about our two days on the trail corridor in the Mahoosucs will run this month.

If you'd like a sneak peek, you can check out this downloadable PDF file.

A Minor Loss

2007-12-22T08:20:00.001-08:00

Last night I said goodbye to an old friend, sooner than I would have liked. My faithful Fuji bicycle, my partner in commuting for the last three years, was stolen while I was at the library. She was locked up securely, but not securely enough I guess.

Together we'd criss-crossed over 13,000 miles of Los Angeles pavement on my route from Hollywood to Santa Monica.

I hadn't put any money into maintaining it recently, so most of the components were worn to the ground. By the time I walked home from the library, I was already at peace about the loss. Nevertheless, I was also hoping that whoever yanked it would land on their head when they changed my worn out gears.

This morning I picked out another bike online, since it's the main way I get around. This time I wanted a no-frills, ultra minimal bike to beat up that won't be as enticing to thieves. I settled on this generic fixie that flips to be a freewheel, and includes two brakes.

I like the orange I ordered. But if I have two weeks that I don't need to ride it, I found a nice forum that describes in step-by step detail how to repaint a bike with a custom color.

The Story of Stuff

2007-12-21T09:15:00.000-08:00

Have you ever wondered where all the stuff we buy comes from and where it goes when we throw it out?

Annie Leonard presents a well organized, and thought provoking presentation of this system in crisis. Visit The Story of Stuff where you can watch the movie in 4 minute chunks, or all 20 minutes at once.

My favorite part is in her conclusion, proposing another way.

"Some say its unrealistic. Too idealistic - that it can't happen. I say the ones who are unrealistic are the ones that think we can continue with the old way. They're dreaming.

Remember, the old way didn't just happen. It wasn't like gravity that we just have to live with. People created it, and we're people too. So let's create something new."

If you can't stand listening to some 'tree-hugger' talk about 'the environment' then this video is definitely not for you... Oh wait, yes it is. You live on this planet too.

Captain Morgan

2007-12-13T22:43:00.000-08:00

One day we were hiking and met two hikers heading south. We said hello and began to pass, when I noticed a purple goatee and handlebar mustache scribbled on the face of the second hiker.

I said to him, "Hey, I like that look," to which the first hiker replied, "Yeah, he's trying something new," referring to his 3-day stubble, after which he kept on moving in a determined manner.

A minute later, we met two more hikers who looked like they might be a part of the same group, so we asked if they knew the story with the ones we'd just met. We learned that the first hiker had scribbled on the second guy's face several days earlier, and no one had told him yet. They had been calling him Captain Morgan, and he said he liked that as a nickname.

Adjustment - Part 5 - Los Angeles

2007-12-09T18:05:00.000-08:00

Last night Lauren and I were reviewing our trip photos and each of us got choked up in our own way. I was transported back to the excitement I felt in Georgia as a novice thru-hiker, and the thrill of hiking through Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. Lauren was missing friends from the trail who we share deep connections, and the simplicity of life out of a backpack.

So many memories packed into this summer.

And who could forget Maine? We both agree we'd like to be there right now and see what goes on in those small towns and outposts during the deep winter.

Instead we're getting back into inevitable responsibilities of town life, but approaching them with renewed appreciation and focus.

Lauren has been looking to get back into her educational background in food science, which she's been out of for five years. She got a break this week when a food processing plant near downtown called on her to test samples in their microbiology lab. After two days, so far, so good!

I have been looking for design opportunities, while continuing to pursue entrepreneurial projects through my graphic design company, Studiofluid. One highlight has been doing identity and design work for our friend, Matt, who we met on the trail. His seasonings company is top-notch, and I'll be highlighting it when our work is complete.

Apartment Views

2007-12-09T16:58:00.000-08:00

Today we awoke to a fantastic gift on the horizon, the snow covered peaks of the San Gabriels. The following photos are taken from the living room window of our new apartment.

Although our apartment isn't furnished yet (we sold most of our extraneous belongings on ebay and most of our furniture on Craigslist) the stunning views from our windows make up for the pile of cardboard inside. For the moment anyway...

We've been settling into a pretty nice routine back here in Los Angeles. Each morning Lauren and I have been waking up together and going for a 5 mile walk. We head out our door and into the hills, past the Observatory, where we take in views of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding peaks.

Meandering to the Middle East

2007-12-05T11:57:00.000-08:00

A Seafaring Gentile is a blog about a young man's adventures, discoveries and observations while traveling abroad in Spain, Morocco, Egypt and beyond. He also happens to be my younger brother.

When you get used to his writing style, his vibrant depiction of humanity is quite engrossing. I'm not sure how often he plans to update, but when he does the stories and photos are quite inspiring.

Be well, man. I'm proud of you. I hope you find what you're looking for and much more.

Some Call it Winter

2007-11-30T10:35:00.000-08:00

The rains are officially upon us. We woke up and looked out the window, excited by the promise of thick gray clouds and the cool dreary mood. I don't think it has rained in Los Angeles since we left seven months ago.

Rain is a rare blessing here in Southern California. I think we typically have only 10-14 rainy days all year, all within the months of November to April. Aside from the renewing and life-giving properties, when it rains, life is different. The pace of life slows down. People don't leave the house. Traffic comes to a grinding halt. It's literally headline news. People here react to a rainy day as a hardy new-englander might react to a severe ice storm.

I was a wimp this morning and decided to do some yoga stretching instead of venture out into the downpour. Quite a contrast to life on the trail, where we would venture forth regardless of the conditions. Lauren joined me, and then went out for a walk anyway.

As I look out our windows, I delight in the anticipation of what is to come. The scorched earth of the San Gabriel Mountains will be quenched and the threat of fire will fade away. The vegetation will once again begin to grow, and stabilize potential mudslides. Everything will turn lush and green. Soon we'll look out and see the snow-capped San Bernardino Mountains towering above 10,000' in the distance.

As a native of the east coast, it's a stretch for me to call it winter, but I love this time of year.

- - - -

UPDATE: This evening I happened to turn on the evening news to see a "special live report" from a news correspondent. He was showing viewers how to use their windshield wipers and check their wiper fluid. Surreal to say the least.

Appalachian Trail Journeys

2007-11-28T11:01:00.000-08:00

Last week we finished writing a short article describing our volunteer experience on the boundary in the Mahoosucs. The article will probably run in Jan/Feb issue of the A.T.C. publication Appalachian Trail Journeys with accompanying photos, so be on the lookout for it.

Why Does A Salad Cost More Than A Big Mac?

2007-11-28T10:29:00.000-08:00

Cheap and filling food is far more prevalent these days rather than nutritious options. On the trail, it was disturbing to see the limited options for the locals, especially in the south.

Jason Kottke pointed out a thought provoking article about the new "Farm Bill" and how Government spending does not match-up with its own Nutrition Recommendations.

The bill provides billions of dollars in subsidies, much of which goes to huge agribusinesses producing feed crops, such as corn and soy, which are then fed to animals. By funding these crops, the government supports the production of meat and dairy products -- the same products that contribute to our growing rates of obesity and chronic disease. Fruit and vegetable farmers, on the other hand, receive less than 1 percent of government subsidies.

Them Damn Kids

2007-11-19T10:32:00.000-08:00

We just found out that one of our friends from the trail, "Lifesaver" has released an album with his band "Them Damn Kids," under Chestnut Tree Records. They have a fragile, melodic sound, that Lifesaver shared with us at various points along the trail on an acoustic guitar.

They will be touring the west coast next month, actually playing down the street from us in Hollywood on December 2, 2007. See you then, Lifesaver!

- - - -

UPDATE: Nice job at the show, Lifesaver. It was good to see you and catch up. Sorry we couldn't stay until the end. We're enjoying your CD.

Adjustment - Part 4 - Los Angeles

2007-11-19T09:00:00.000-08:00

We're back on the west coast and doing quite well.

We ended up switching our plane tickets and returning two weeks earlier than anticipated, which has turned out to be an incredibly refreshing decision. After being nomadic since April, it feels good to have a stable place to call our own, and to make headway with all of the adjustments of health care, jobs, and other loose ends.

Our new place is approximately one mile from where we used to live, and we couldn't be happier. It's quiet, with nice breezes and on the fifth floor of a seven story building; we rarely take the elevator just to prolong our trail legs a bit longer. From our living room we look out to the mountains, Griffith Observatory & Hollywood Sign, Downtown, and two Frank Lloyd Wright houses.

Our friend was moving out as we were returning, so we were able to take over the lease and slip in at a way-below-market rent. Half the price of our old apartment, or 1/3 the price that our old landlord is charging since we've left!

You can reach us at our new address:
Ben and Lauren Thompson
5217 Hollywood Blvd #508, Los Angeles CA 90027

15 Minutes

2007-10-31T11:23:00.001-07:00

Yesterday Lauren and I appeared in her hometown newspaper, The Gloucester County Times. The columnist, Bob Shyrock, heard about our trip from friends (Jack and Jean) who have been faithful followers of our trip blog.

Bob regularly highlights local people and places and gave us a call last week. Our phone interview lasted about 45 minutes and we thought he did a nice job composing the article.

Our only footnotes would be that we slept mostly under our tarp on the trail, not in shelters - and that my sister Hannah is actually 9-years-old. But overall... very accurate!

You can find the article here, if you want to take a look.

Shenandoah Ranger Photo

2007-10-26T07:50:00.000-07:00

We have a Google alert that automatically notifies us any time someone posts the phrases "Stitch and Figgy" or "Figgy and Stitch" to the web.

This one was kind of interesting: I guess the guy in the green shirt in our photo posted this image to his web album here.

Be careful about what you write about “Stitch and Figgy!”

Crossings

2007-10-25T14:15:00.000-07:00

I am writing this post as we traverse Pennsylvania by train, en route to my parent's house in Pittsburgh. Lauren and I have been reading our trail journals to each other, sharing with each other our notes and perspectives from the trail for the first time. So far we're two weeks in, just reliving some of the emotional and physical highs and lows of the Smokies.

Today's train route was something I hadn't given any thought to, and was overjoyed when I looked out the window to see the Susquehanna River and the familiar views of Duncannon, PA. I couldn't contain my exclamations and pointing when I saw the Doyle Hotel, the old sled factory, and the exact underpass where our footsteps crossed these tracks just three months earlier.

Each time we encounter the trail I am overcome with a flood of emotions, and a sense of nostalgia one might expect from an old-timer telling stories of "back in my day..."

So far we've intersected the A.T. four times since completing our thru-hike. First in Killington near the Inn at the Long Trail, and again near the Clarendon Gorge in Vermont. A few weeks ago we crossed at the southern end of Harriman State Park near Tuxedo, New York, and now again today on our Amtrak rails.

Before hiking the trail I would drive the PA-76 turnpike and daydream about the A.T. passing by on the concrete bridge above. Now I know.

Remembering the Hikers of 2007

2007-10-24T07:04:00.000-07:00

One of the main attractors (or detractors) of hiking the Appalachian Trail is the number of other long distance hikers out there. Even if you start out late, as we did, you're bound to run into the 'herd' of hikers at some point. For us, that began around the halfway point, when we reached Boiling Springs, PA.

If you prefer solitude, the A.T. is probably not the trail for you. But if you can drop some of those expectations and embrace the unique traits that distinguish A.T. from other trails, interacting with the hiking community can be enjoyable.

As a fun challenge, last week Lauren and I began compiling a list of every long distance hiker that we personally met on the A.T. this summer. Our list of trail names can be found here.

Some of these were section hikers and some were aspiring thru-hikers. Some we met for 5 seconds, a few became recurring parts of our journey, and with some we shared a deeper connection.

We were actually surprised by how many hikers we met over the summer, probably because we were covering slightly more mileage than most. In total we were able to remember over 225 people that we met on our journey, simply because they adopted a unique trail name.

Adjustment - Part 3

2007-10-20T18:00:00.000-07:00

Lauren and I are down visiting her sister and husband in Virginia, where I spent the better part of the day helping to install new windows into their townhouse. Being engaged in something constructive felt decisively good.

We've been in contact with trail friends and we're certainly not the only ones facing transitions, sometimes awkward ones. I've compiled a short list of some recurring themes that I've experienced or heard:

Jumping back into an old routine, where everyone is doing the exact same thing they were doing before. Unspoken expectations resulting in tension or disagreement. Well-meaning people concerned about thru-hiking as an irresponsible lifestyle pattern. Automobile traffic. Finding people generally can only relate on the topics of buying things and what job is next. Superficial conversations.

The post-trip adjustment period is one that faces all thru-hikers, yet resources and information regarding the subject are few compared to the abundance of pre-trail and on-trail material.

My friend, Crow, was on the PCT this year and I appreciated her brief reflection on reentry from the trail.

Personally, I think the important thing is to not get hung up on the "trail life vs. the real world" mindset, and to embrace each day we're given.

On the trail I improved my ability to live in the present moment, which is a mindset I'll continue developing. The so-called "real world" is whatever we make of it, each and every day.

Books About the Trail

2007-10-20T13:46:00.000-07:00

For better or worse, Bill Bryson's A Walk in the Woods is the highest selling book about the Appalachian Trail. Many thru-hikers come out to the A.T. because of that book, and for many other non-hikers, it is the only source of information that they have about the trail.

While a humorous and often interesting read, Bryson's aim was to sell books, not necessarily present an accurate picture of the trail or thru-hiking. If the cover is any indication, it features a sensationalized man-eating Grizzly bear, which aren't found anywhere east of the Mississippi let alone on the Appalachian Trail.

Although I am not as critical of the book as some, I am unimpressed with some of Bryson's decisions in presenting the trail. Here are a few of my objections:

Bryson hiked less than 800 miles of the trail, mostly as day hikes, yet postures himself a thru-hiker.

Bryson perpetuates cheap-shot negative stereotypes of southerners that are unnecessary.

Bryson purportedly admits that bumbling sidekick, Katz, is made up - created from pieces of his own personality - and included for comic relief.

Their actions on the trail are frequently disrespectful to the landscape and to other hikers - setting a poor precedent for those unfamiliar with proper backcountry practices.

Bryson profits immensely from the book, but has not donated any proceeds back to the trail unless done anonymously.

The exposure his book brought to the A.T. has been dubbed as the "Bryson Effect." In the years following publication in 1999, more people attempted thru-hikes than ever before, leadng to overcrowding and poor trail conditions.

Since 2005 I have been following the buzz about the book being adapted into a movie with Robert Redford and Paul Newman. Last I heard there is still no script, but hikers on the A.T. this year met crews who were filming establishing shots and landmarks. I can only imagine the mixed blessing that such a movie would bring to the Appalachian Trail. I am just glad to have hiked it before the circus, if it ever does become a movie.

If you're curious about the book, I'd advise checking it out from the library and saving your money for a donation to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy - just be aware that his story is a humorous embellishment, with loose creative license, and is not representative of a real thru-hike experience.

Recommended Reading

For something more substantial, I heartily recommend Earl Schaffer's beautifully written Walking With Spring - a reflection of his 1948 hike as the first person to walk the A.T. from end to end.

As Far as the Eye Can See by David Brill, is another good choice for a trail memoir about his 1979 hike. I enjoyed how it was organized in topical chunks, rather than the default (often dry) chronological account.

Blind Courage by Bill Irwin, a legally-blind man who walked the entire trail with his guide dog. I can't remember how many times he said he fell down, but the trail is difficult enough to complete for sighted people...

and one bonus:

A Blistered Kind of Love by Angela and Duffy Ballard. This well written account of their thru-hike on the Pacific Crest Trail. Lauren and I enjoyed reading about another couples' experience on a long distance hike.

Photographic Prints

2007-10-17T12:22:00.000-07:00

Several readers have contacted me about the possibility of purchasing enlarged prints from our A.T. trip photography archives.

Now that I am back from the trail, I am in a position to explore the quality and cost of enlargements, as well as framing options.

I will post in the future confirming details of pricing and availablity. Please contact me if you already know you are interested:

thompson {dot} ben {at} gmail {dot} com

Let me know:

the title and description of photo(s)
framed or unframed
desired size: 4x7 , 5x9, 8x14

Adjustment - Part 2

2007-10-13T13:57:00.000-07:00

Our current state of not being "productive" or actively doing something is a strange adjustment. On our adventure we were without many responsibilities, but we were still walking 20 miles per day. Sitting around reading or watching a movie just feels foreign.

Last night I tossed and turned all night, awake for most of it. I discovered that since I did not walk yesterday, although I was sleepy when I went to bed, my body was too restless to get much sleep. Good to know. Today we went for a hike with Lauren's parents and sister.

Several toes on my left foot continue to be numb, a condition caused by pounding that is not uncommon among long-distance hikers. I understand it is usually temporary. It doesn't hurt, but just feels weird. It is also still uncomfortable for me to walk around barefoot, since the bottoms of my feet are a bit tender. I heard from another hiker that this might last about a month.

Unfortunately Lauren's blood sugars are still running high. A transition period can be expected, but she caught a cold that was going around and that certainly did not help because it only elevates them.

I have heard from our friends He-Man & She-Ra, Gorbo and Turbo Turtle. It seems that they each are experiencing similar transition hurdles. And a big congrats to He-Man and She-Ra who got married a couple days ago - something that didn't pan out for them at the base of Katahdin - but must make for another layer of post-trail transition!

This week I mustered up the courage to sort trip boxes, re-connect our cell phones and tackle the pile of bills and correspondence that need attention. I feel back in the swing of things a bit.

My friend Will, who has thru-hiked the PCT encouraged me in an email saying, "I hope your reentry will forever be superficial." After the thrill and clarity that comes with an epic adventure, that's what I'm hoping for too.

Adjustment - Part 1

2007-10-08T13:02:00.000-07:00

We successfully caught a ride from our friend Tom down to PA where Lauren's dad picked us up and brought us to their home in New Jersey. During the 8 hour ride we discovered that if we banged on our knees with empty glass bottles it relieved the aching, and provided amusement for Tom.

Somehow summer still lingers here in NJ. Seems like the same story everywhere... what's going on? The late finishing thru-hikers must be enjoying some favorable October conditions.

I feel exhausted. Each morning I want to sleep in, by the afternoon I want to take a nap, and at 9pm each night I'm ready to turn in for bed. Walking and being active seems to help, though.

We've been taking daily walks through the farm country of southern NJ and even took an afternoon hike on Saturday with Lauren's parents. Four to eight miles per day is what we've been averaging. This morning I did some yoga stretching and took a nap in the sun.

Lauren's blood sugar levels have been far too high, waking up each morning above 400 and rarely coming down below 200 (normal levels are 70-120). We changed out her insulin yesterday, hoping to see improvement, but sometimes her body takes over a full week to adjust to new diet and activity levels. Her birthday is tomorrow and we have not figured out how we will celebrate.

Our boxes are piled in the spare bedroom. Backpacking gear, unused trail food, stacks of letters and bills, town clothes and other miscellaneous items need our attention for sorting. I feel a bit overwhelmed by the task, but expect to start tomorrow.

Right now I'm uploading photos from the final leg of our trip and hope to comment about them on the blog this week, as I have internet access.

Maine in the Fall

2007-10-02T09:43:00.000-07:00

Two words sum up our experience of Maine in the Fall: Leaves and Moose. During our hike we had the good fortune to enjoy both.

Although September has been unusually dry, and the leaves did not change as vibrantly as they sometimes do, it made up for some of the falls we've missed on the west coast.

We were not hiking during the peak color - which surprisingly still has not arrived - but that also meant we never had a below-freezing night on the trail.

While hiking the Appalachian Trail through New Hampshire and Maine, we saw a trip total of 5 moose. But when we hit Abol Bridge, the northern border of the "100 mile wilderness," we saw at least that many, this time lifeless with tongues hanging out.

In late September and early October Maine has a 2 week lottery-system moose hunting season. We arrived at Abol Bridge on the second day of the season and watched a half dozen proud hunters bring their moose in for registration.

The clerk at the country store walks out to each truck and takes a few measurements to document the moose for state records. The climax is when they tear out a tooth with pliers or screwdriver so it can be analyzed by a biologist for research purposes. We watched this procession repeatedly through the afternoon, from our front row seats at the picnic table.

Interesting, but we certainly preferred our previous moose encounters.

Back in the Land of Cotton

2007-10-01T10:42:00.000-07:00

After our five month excursion, our bodies tell us they want to be in motion. It is very difficult to sit still for more than an hour. I find myself wanting to stretch, walk, do push ups, or calf raises on a step. This condition is exaggerated when travelling in a confined space, which we've been doing lately.

After a shuttle from Millinocket to Medford and then a bus on to Bangor, ME - we split a rental car with some fellow hikers who drove to New Hampton, NH where we stayed with our friend "Gorbo" (his winter hiking website). In the morning we rode on with "Safari-26" and "Turbo Turtle" to a quick stop by the Inn at the Long Trail to see what hikers had signed in after us. Shortly after they dropped us off in Rutland Vermont, as they continued on to the mid-west.

We've been spending a few days in Rutland, VT with friends from the Twelve Tribes who we originally met at Trail Days and then stayed at their hostel when hiking. Lauren and I have been learning how to make Spelt bread in their bakery and are decompressing from our summer at the café. It is enjoyable to work together learning something completely new. We look forward to continuing the momentum and unity we've experienced and discover how that develops in the chapter of our lives.

Later this week we're planning to reconnect with Sally and Ellen from the Mahoosucs Boundary Project and see our friend, Tom, who is also in the general area. If he is still headed down to the ALDHA (American Long Distance Hiking Association) convention, we're thinking we may be able to share a ride with him - although we won't be attending.

Many people have written us with congratulations and asked about how we're feeling. So far, we are feeling relaxed, satisfied and proud of completing such a rewarding undertaking.

What a treat to be clean and wearing cotton again, which we picked up at the thrift store in Rutland. Now I just need to find some comfortable shoes so I can destroy my wretched hiking shoes and also get out these $2 flip-flops.

Thanks Again For the Generosity

2007-10-01T10:40:00.000-07:00

We are grateful to the companies that helped propel us along the way and wanted to say thanks again for the generosity and nutrition. Lauren and I are both deeply appreciative.

In particular, the folks at Valley Fig Growers have been amazing, mailing to us in whatever town and in whatever quantity that Lauren needed them. Unbelievable, really. Linda, Julie and everyone else back in California - Thank You!

We've Run Out of Trail

2007-09-28T04:23:00.000-07:00

We summited Katahdin just before 8am on September 27, 2007. The northern terminus of our 2,174 mile journey on the Appalachian Trail. (Yesterday I left a message with my sister, Bethany, who will post when she finds time between college classes. Thanks for your huge commitment this summer, Bethany!)

We are elated, satisfied and happy not to be walking in the rain this morning. We're in Millinocket Maine this morning, enjoying coffee and breakfast at a diner. I will be posting more stories and photos as I have available internet access. We are taking it slow and lying low for the time being, just adjusting back to town life.

Our view of Katahdin from Abol Bridge, just 10 miles to the north. What an amazing mountain and conclusion to our adventure.

We began our summit attempt at 4am. The fog lifted just after 5am giving us sweeping views of the surrounding peaks.

We were joined by "Turbo Turtle" and "Safari-26" on our steep boulder scramble up Katahdin. Our friends "He-Man" and "She-Ra" summited with us as well, barely visible in the background of the photo above.

We Did It!

2007-09-27T13:00:00.000-07:00

(Phone message transcribed)

I am standing at a payphone in Millinocket, ME. We summited Katahdin this morning. We have completed all 2,174.8 miles of the Appalachian Trail and feeling great.

Last night we went to bed at 7:30pm and awoke this morning at 3am. We were on the trail by 4am with our friends He-Man, She-Ra, Turbo Turtle and Safari-26. The five of us made our way to the summit by around 8am. We broke through the low-hanging fog while we were partway up and were able to have clear views of the mountains and Tablelands.

Just as we approached the very top, at the sign is where we became completely socked in by the clouds. We took some photos and made our way back down, and were completely off the mountain by the time it truly started to rain.

It is difficult to process what is going on. I don't exactly know how I feel. I definitely know that we are glad to be done, and to have completed sun an amazing undertaking. I'm sure in the next few days and weeks we'll experience some of the mixed emotions that are inevitable, but it feels great to be where we are right now.

I think I'm going to head across the street and meet up with Lauren at the Appalachian Trail Cafe, grab a coffee and hopefully head out to the Blue Ox Saloon tonight and celebrate with some of our fellow thru-hikers who have also compteted the trail.

I plan to continue posting regularly with photos and commentary on the last stretch of our journey.

For now, signing off for the last time during our hike. We did it!

One Week and Counting!!!!!!!

2007-09-20T11:09:00.000-07:00

(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)

Good morning! Today is Thursday, September 20, 2007. We’re calling from the Monson General Store at a pay phone outside. We’re moments away from getting a hitch back to the trail. We’ve got probably seven or eight days of food as we are carrying all the food that we need to reach Katahdin and summit, as well as the night afterwards. We plan to climb Katahdin and Baxter Peak, one week from today, September 27, 2007. We’ve got one extra buffer day thrown in there in case of weather or anything else.

Lauren has a wrap on her ankle. A friend gave her some extra pain killers in case that she needs them (they would normally be behind lock and key, haha!) Our friends Josh and Sarah (aka He-Man and She-Ra) surprised us by catching up with us yesterday. We all stayed at the same lodging in town called Shaws.

Anyway, our packs are pretty much maxed out as far as capacity and weight. They have no frame in them so they feel quite heavy on our shoulders. I’m probably carrying about 35 pounds and Lauren is probably carrying 25 pounds. We’re hoping for a really great stretch here to finish out the trip strong! That’s the news from town, and we will probably not be in contact with anyone for the next week. Thanks to everyone for keeping up with us and for all the encouragement!!!

Over and Out.

Update - Monson, Maine (Mile 2059.5)

2007-09-19T12:18:00.000-07:00

Today we hiked to ME15 after six miles, and hitched into the friendly town of Monson, Maine. With mixed emotions we're enjoying our LAST trail town before Baxter Park and our climb up Katahdin. This afternoon we're relaxing, preparing for our final stretch, and spending the night at Shaw's Lodging. We'll be loading up with 7 days of food, so we can take it nice and easy in the 100 mile "wilderness."

Our traverse of the Bigelow Range was one of our more dramatic moments on the trip. Avery Peak - named for 1930's A.T. visionary and builder, Myron Avery - was stormy and covered in clouds all day except for the hour that we passed over. The clouds swirling along the ridge line and Little Bigelow peaking through made our day!

On Monday (9/17) we hiked to the Kennebec River, where we were safely escorted across by M.A.T.C. ferryman Steve Longley. The river was about 6 feet deep where the trail crosses, and has a dam upstream that automatically releases more water during increased power demand. The Maine Appalachian Trail Club has paddled over 9,000 hikers across this river in the last 30 years.

We're delighted by all kinds of colorful surprises as September comes to a close. This week we discovered that the bright green moss we've been seeing all summer is now turning to an intense crimson.

So far we've seen three moose and heard another running away. This one was just north of Andover. We watched each other for several minutes before parting ways.

Cousin Amy, we received the congratulations card at the Post Office today. Thank you so much! There is no town of Katahdin, Maine - so they figured out where to send it to us anyway.

Also Known As...

2007-09-19T12:03:00.000-07:00

When on the trail, Lauren and I go by our trail names "Stitch" and "Figgy" for reasons I describe in this post.

Over the course of the trail we've had a few people either mis-hear our names, or forget them and make some improvements. We thought we'd share some of our favorites below:

Stitch:

Fitch
Hitch
Stitches
Stench

Figgy:

Twiggy
Piggy
Ziggy
Fergie
Dates

Nothing Like A Lumber Jack Breakfast

2007-09-18T17:22:00.000-07:00

(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)

It is Monday, September 17, 2007. It’s a little before 9:00 in the morning. Lauren and I are calling from the Harrison Camp. We just stopped by the Ken Harrison Cabin for a lumberjack breakfast of 12 pancakes, coffee (Lauren's Favorite!), and eggs. We’re sitting now, by the Pierce Pond Stream, looking out of the living room at the waterfall and early morning sunlight.

This morning we are at mile 2,019.2. We have about an hour long walk continuing northward to the Kennebec River. That river has the reputation for being the most formidable crossing on the trail where a canoe takes you across, leaving from two different schedules during the day. We hope to catch the ferry that leaves between 9:00am and 11:00am.

Lauren’s ankle is still painful but holding up okay. The terrain has leveled out quite a bit though. Yesterday, we came down from the Bigelow Range, which is the last significant mountain range until we reach Kathadin! It looks like we’re going to have another 150 miles of smooth cruising. And the weather seems as if it is going to hold out giving us sunshine and crisp temperatures for the rest of the week. We’re still doing well!!

That’s about it for now. Over and Out.

Another Day in Stratton, Maine

2007-09-14T11:40:00.001-07:00

We decided to stick around Stratton for an extra day today, giving Lauren's shin splint some extra time to recover. She is feeling somewhat better, but is definitely walking gingerly. We are going to walk a few miles north of Stratton tonight and be ready for a full day tomorrow.

We are about 2 days from Caratunk, and then 3 days from Monson - our final town stop, where the final “100 mile wilderness” begins.

Update - Stratton, Maine (Mile 1986.2)

2007-09-13T10:30:00.000-07:00

After drying out in Rangely on Monday, the following two days en-route to Stratton have been the most challenging conditions we've faced on the trip.

Our 9am climb over the Saddleback Mountains on Tuesday (9/11) was above treeline and consisted of several hours of slippery steep rock slabs in howling wind. We hiked through rain-laden clouds that deposited their moisture as they whipped past. In such conditions we struggled to make more than one miler per hour. Although the temperatures were probably in the high 40s, the wind chill numbed our hands and reminded us to keep moving to retain our body heat.

I did not bother with a photo during that stretch, in the interest of the camera's and our own well-being. All told, we did hike a surprising 15 miles that day and saved our insulating clothing for camp, where we were cozy through the night.

We heard later from our friends Josh and Sara (aka He-Man and She-ra), that by time they arrived at the same summit 4 hours later, the gusts were strong enough to move a 175lb person (maybe 70mph). They retreated to treeline where they huddled in their tent for 18 hours, before heading 6 miles back into Rangely to regroup.

The following morning was difficult mentally to put our toasty feet into cold, wet socks & shoes and then head out into the same blustery and soaking conditions. Fortunately our day was entirely below treeline and we were pleasantly surprised when the sun pierced the clouds by 10am. By the afternoon, the winds were strong and the clouds had broken up allowing views from the Crocker Mountains. With that encouragement we continued on all the way into Stratton by 5pm where we found a comfy hotel room at the White Wolf Inn.

It's been almost three weeks since we took a complete day of rest (our "days off" doing trail work didn't count...) and we've been feeling the effects. Lauren's right ankle has been increasingly bothering her with an overuse injury that is probably a shin splint.

Yesterday it took her an above-the-doctor-recommended dose of Advil to make it into town. Today she is completely off of her feet resting in our hotel room. We may take another day off tomorrow for good measure, but will make that call in the morning.

Now that the rain has passed through, our skies are clear blue and the temperatures distinctly crisp. Fall is upon us in the northeast, and the first changing colored leaves are beginning to poke through.

It is difficult to believe that we are now 187.8 miles from the northern terminus of the trail, Katahdin.

Katahdin Is the New Maine

2007-09-10T17:00:00.000-07:00

(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)

Today is Monday, September 10, 2007. It’s the afternoon and I’m calling from Rangeley, Maine, mile 1,954. Yesterday, Lauren and I hiked through a lingering rain storm. It was a pretty chilly night and we were damp when we arrived into camp and we worked together to set up our tarp in the rain, climb inside, change into warm clothes and have dinner.

The terrain in this part of Maine is pretty unique to our trip. It seems that most areas have about 6 inches or less of soil and then beneath that it is solid rock. As it rains, there’s not much soil to absorb it and it all runs either into the trail or into a low lying boggy area. We were walking through quite a lot of slippery mud, exposed roots and “bog-logs.” After walking in the rain yesterday, it gave us quite a new appreciation for the geography that makes Maine so unique.

Today we are taking half a day off in Rangeley, Maine. It’s somewhat of a touristy town, vacation spot on a lake, quite scenic. We spent the morning sipping on coffee and catching up in our journals. This afternoon we are going to do some laundry and then we will be heading out of town, trying to make two more miles tonight before it gets dark. We’re having a great time. As of this moment we have 220 miles left to Katahdin and it’s pretty hard to believe! We’re coming up on two weeks left on our journey and I can’t quite fathom it.

One interesting thing that we’ve been noticing is that we can’t tell people that, “Oh, we’re walking to Maine,” which is what we’ve been doing. Lauren said that to someone already and they said, “Well, you’re in Maine!" Lauren commented in her journal that Katahdin is the new Maine. So that’s where we’re telling people that we’re headed now! We’re doing great.

That’s it for now. Over and Out.

Update - Andover Maine

2007-09-07T15:10:00.000-07:00

As one might guess, Maine has been incredibly beautiful so far, although unseasonably warm. We were in the 80s today!

Lauren and I hiked through the rugged Mahoosucs over the last couple days. The Notch and Arm were quite challenging stretches and slowed us down quite a bit. At certain points you need to take off your pack and crawl under house-sized boulders.

It took us about 2.5 hours to come through the nothch, mostly because Lauren's sugars were not all that strong and she was also spooked by the grusome moose carcass that is literally on the trail. (He fell down the cliffs over a month ago and we've been hearing about it since Massachusetts. He was "mercy-killed" after 5 days and now has prayer flags over him.)

Our stealth camp sites at night have been some of our most favorite of the trip. The weather has permitted us to sleep out under the stars or under a canopy of trees, without using our tarp.

Our friends at the A.T.C. made arrangements for us to stay with "Bear" and "Honey" at "The Cabin" in East Andover. The cabin is actually fairly full so they put us up in the pop-up outside. When hikers wash clothes we usually wear our raingear, so complimentary wash duds are always a treat.

Thank you for the notes and encouragement... Lourdes, Adrian, Matt...
We're having so much fun.

"Welcome to Maine: The Way Life Should Be"

2007-09-06T20:54:00.001-07:00

(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)

Today is September 5, 2007. I’m calling from the Carlow Col Shelter in Maine, on Sally's cell phone. We are at mile 1,893.1 and Lauren and I officially crossed into our final state: Maine. We were greeted by a sign that said, “Welcome to Maine, the way life should be.” So far, I can’t disagree with that.

We had a nice day of boundary trail work with Sally and Ellen. Lauren and I were responsible for what’s called swamping, where we pick up pine bowels and trees that were cleared and then Lauren followed up with nailing some boundary signs up along with some yellow paint. Anyway, we’re excited to be where we are! The temperatures are definitely beginning to be crisp, cool, and fall like. We’re looking forward to all of the great color and scenery that we have ahead.

Lauren’s ribs are still quite a bit tender, so she’s been hiking quite a bit slower because of that. Tomorrow we are headed through what’s known as the slowest mile of AT known as the Mahoosuc Notch. It’s about a mile of boulders and it’s kind of like a rubble field that we’re going to go through in the middle of the box canyon. I guess that’s the news from the trail. We’re excited to have less than 300 miles.

That’s it for now. Over and Out.

Almost to Maine...CRAZY

2007-09-04T10:15:00.000-07:00

(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)

Good morning! It’s about 10 am on Tuesday, September 4, 2007. Lauren and I spent the last couple of nights at our friend Ping’s "hut" in Gorham, NH. She and her husband, Barry, treated us like royalty, so it was fun to be there for a couple of days!

As I had mentioned before, we did trail work yesterday in the Mahoosucs. Today we are going to be headed out of town and we hope to cover about 10-12 miles. Tomorrow, Wednesday, we plan to meet up with another trail crew and do another day of work on the trail. Probably by Wednesday evening, we will cross the state line into Maine and camp just east of the border.

Lauren and I are feeling strong. We’ve got just about 300 miles left to go! The only thing that I can think to mention related to physical condition is that Lauren took a hard fall a couple of days ago and has some tender ribs, so we’re just keeping an eye on that and I’m trying to carry a little extra weight.

Other than that, it’s a gorgeous day here. We woke up with cloudy skies and everything blew off to the east so it’s nice and clear. I expect that we’re going to have quite a good stretch of sunny weather, crisp and cool, but gorgeous.

When I hit the top of Gorham Route 2, I got goose bumps thinking about how we’re almost finished, and I got a foreshadowing of what it might feel like to summit Khatadin, Maine. We understand that we have a very rugged and scenic stretch ahead of us, but we’re having an awesome time.

That’s it for now. Over and Out.

Mahoosucs Boundary Work

2007-09-03T19:45:00.000-07:00

Today Lauren and I worked with a crew of two A.T.C. employees (Sally and Ellen) and 5 volunteers, including ourselves. We hauled supplies of paint, fuel and tools to a staging area where their team will be working from this month. I hauled a pack primarily of yellow paint that I estimate was around 60 pounds.

Later we learned the basics of boundary maintaining from Sally, who loves working with volunteers. Since the A.T. boundaries in this area have not been checked or marked in over 20 years, the neighboring logging operation might inadvertently clearcut right up to the trail.

The boundary must be located, the brush cut, and then trees painted with a system of yellow blazes that indicate where the line is.

We had a great day on the boundary and will stop to help them again for another afternoon when we reach their location in the Mahoosucs - a few days north of Gorham. Pictured left to right: Ben, Tom, Lauren, Emily, Ellen, Sally and Clearwater.

Sally and Ellen are keeping a blog about this trip called No Limits, Just Boundaries.

A Case of Mistaken Identity

2007-09-03T19:14:00.000-07:00

Figgy and I do not look like typical thru-hikers, and quite often to our amusement, we are mistaken for day hikers.

We lack all of the "official" characteristics that people expect from "real" thru-hikers.

trekking poles

large pack

heavy boots

northbound beard

We do not carry trekking poles because our loads are so light we don't need them. Same goes for the leather boots, so we use running shoes. And we find gaiters to be unnecessary. (Many of the techniques we've employed this summer come from Ray Jardine's insightful and provocative book on the subject.)

And since we take care of ourselves at home, we figure it couldn't hurt on the trail. Even after one week without a town stop or real showers we still have people comment about how clean we look.

Just this weekend we met a friendly couple who in typical fashion mistook us for dayhikers. Andrew has recorded their impressions of us on their blog. On another occasion we arrived at a hostel where we even confused a bunch of thru-hikers who had not met us yet. They were wondering if dayhikers were allowed to stay there as well.

Anyway, fun times. I guess appearances can be deceiving.