I am publicly posting my wakeup times, so I can embarrass myself into getting up every day at 6:30a. It seems that no matter when I go to bed I've been rolling out of bed around 7:30a, and I really want to make better use of my mornings. You can watch the drama here as it unfolds.
(You can track your own nerdy data and statistics by requesting an account over at Daytum).
I realized today that my left big toe is mostly not-numb anymore. That's about four months of recoup time for a common trail side-effect.
After several weeks on the trail, Lauren was probably right around her ideal weight, but by the end, she had gained around 30 pounds. Somewhere around the halfway point of our hike, Lauren began losing muscle tone, gaining weight and feeling bloated.
Clearly some of that gain would be expected with muscle growth, but that still didn't explain everything, and became an increasingly frustrating aspect of our summer for Lauren. While most other hikers were jumping in at the AYCE buffets, and losing significant weight, she was eating modestly and becoming increasingly concerned about her own physique.
This became a point of tension for us, both on the trail, and in the months following. Then, about two weeks ago, Lauren remembered a friend from the past who was diagnosed with Candida and that was the breakthrough that she needed.
Candida is a yeast that each of us have in our systems, typically in balance, but if it grows out of control, it can cause problems.
The more Lauren researched Candida, the more things began to make sense. Below is a list from Dr. John Dommisse of things to avoid for treating Candida, and description of how Lauren's regimen was essentially the opposite.
For two weeks now, Lauren has been eating no fruit and absolutely no sugar, wine, vinegar, yeast, coffee, or black tea. She is also taking oil of oregano and probiotics to reestablish the internal balance. After the first week we didn't notice any results, but after the second week Lauren has lost 6 pounds.
It feels good to be finally making progress.
(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)
Good morning! Today is Thursday, September 20, 2007. We’re calling from the Monson General Store at a pay phone outside. We’re moments away from getting a hitch back to the trail. We’ve got probably seven or eight days of food as we are carrying all the food that we need to reach Katahdin and summit, as well as the night afterwards. We plan to climb Katahdin and Baxter Peak, one week from today, September 27, 2007. We’ve got one extra buffer day thrown in there in case of weather or anything else.
Lauren has a wrap on her ankle. A friend gave her some extra pain killers in case that she needs them (they would normally be behind lock and key, haha!) Our friends Josh and Sarah (aka He-Man and She-Ra) surprised us by catching up with us yesterday. We all stayed at the same lodging in town called Shaws.
Anyway, our packs are pretty much maxed out as far as capacity and weight. They have no frame in them so they feel quite heavy on our shoulders. I’m probably carrying about 35 pounds and Lauren is probably carrying 25 pounds. We’re hoping for a really great stretch here to finish out the trip strong! That’s the news from town, and we will probably not be in contact with anyone for the next week. Thanks to everyone for keeping up with us and for all the encouragement!!!
Over and Out.
(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)
It is Monday, September 17, 2007. It’s a little before 9:00 in the morning. Lauren and I are calling from the Harrison Camp. We just stopped by the Ken Harrison Cabin for a lumberjack breakfast of 12 pancakes, coffee (Lauren's Favorite!), and eggs. We’re sitting now, by the Pierce Pond Stream, looking out of the living room at the waterfall and early morning sunlight.
This morning we are at mile 2,019.2. We have about an hour long walk continuing northward to the Kennebec River. That river has the reputation for being the most formidable crossing on the trail where a canoe takes you across, leaving from two different schedules during the day. We hope to catch the ferry that leaves between 9:00am and 11:00am.
Lauren’s ankle is still painful but holding up okay. The terrain has leveled out quite a bit though. Yesterday, we came down from the Bigelow Range, which is the last significant mountain range until we reach Kathadin! It looks like we’re going to have another 150 miles of smooth cruising. And the weather seems as if it is going to hold out giving us sunshine and crisp temperatures for the rest of the week. We’re still doing well!!
That’s about it for now. Over and Out.
We decided to stick around Stratton for an extra day today, giving Lauren's shin splint some extra time to recover. She is feeling somewhat better, but is definitely walking gingerly. We are going to walk a few miles north of Stratton tonight and be ready for a full day tomorrow.
We are about 2 days from Caratunk, and then 3 days from Monson - our final town stop, where the final “100 mile wilderness” begins.
(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)
Today is September 5, 2007. I’m calling from the Carlow Col Shelter in Maine, on Sally's cell phone. We are at mile 1,893.1 and Lauren and I officially crossed into our final state: Maine. We were greeted by a sign that said, “Welcome to Maine, the way life should be.” So far, I can’t disagree with that.
We had a nice day of boundary trail work with Sally and Ellen. Lauren and I were responsible for what’s called swamping, where we pick up pine bowels and trees that were cleared and then Lauren followed up with nailing some boundary signs up along with some yellow paint. Anyway, we’re excited to be where we are! The temperatures are definitely beginning to be crisp, cool, and fall like. We’re looking forward to all of the great color and scenery that we have ahead.
Lauren’s ribs are still quite a bit tender, so she’s been hiking quite a bit slower because of that. Tomorrow we are headed through what’s known as the slowest mile of AT known as the Mahoosuc Notch. It’s about a mile of boulders and it’s kind of like a rubble field that we’re going to go through in the middle of the box canyon. I guess that’s the news from the trail. We’re excited to have less than 300 miles.
That’s it for now. Over and Out.
(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)
It’s Wednesday August 1, 2007. Lauren and I are at US 22 in New York, which is where the Metro North tracks cross the trail and lead to NYC. It’s about a 1 hour train ride and originally we were planning on visiting my brother Jonathan, but plans have changed and we feel like we need to stay on the course and stick to the trail.
(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)
Today is Thursday, July 26, 2007. 
Lauren and I took off from the Delaware Water Gap on Tuesday morning and my hand was doing markedly better so we felt confident in the trail again. Actually, I was so excited to get back on the trail that I neglected to call or family to let them know what was going on or post a message, so, everyone who was concerned, yes I am doing GREAT! 
I am calling from mile 1,321.9 and we’re more than halfway through New Jersey in High Point State Park and we’re looking to hit Vernon New Jersey by tomorrow morning. Supposedly we’ve reached the end of the rocky stretch and we’re going to be going through farm land and swamps and we’ll be in New York by Saturday morning. That is the news from the trail.
Over and Out.
(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)
Today is Wednesday July 25, 2007 and we are at mile 1,307 near Branchville, NJ. My hand began to show signs of improvement on Tuesday, so we hiked into New Jersey from the DWG. We’re doing well and hopefully will hopefully check in with more news soon.
Over and Out.
It's a rainy day here on the PA/NJ border - the perfect type to cozy up with some steaming coffee at the town bakery. And that is exactly what we've been doing.
I started by antibiotics shot/oral cycle nearly 24 hours ago, and so far I haven't noticed much difference in my hand. Figgy and I will certainly be sticking around town until I see some definitive changes for the better.
The pastor here, Karen Nickels, and a few fellow hikers, Peach and Rex, who are both pharmacists, are helping me keep an eye on it. They say it may take up to 48 hours. I've also been wondering about the possibility that I have a recluse spider bite, but I've got no real epicenter or bite mark, so that is doubtful and would be treated nearly the same anyway.
These physical/mental/financial obstacles have crept up quite frequently in our journey, but truth be told, we are not discouraged in the least and remain excited about our summer adventure. I'm looking forward to some healthy hiking, even rainy healthy hiking. Soon, I'm sure.
Looks like Kevin has uploaded the contents of my latest memory card. Thanks, man.
(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)
It’s Sunday July 22, 2007. After seeing the swelling in my hand continue to spread and move to the next finger over, my middle finger, I had a helpful conversation with my dad and decided to head on over to the emergency room. I spent about an hour in the ER today. I got an antibiotic shot in my leg that was extremely painful - they said my buttocks didn't have enough fat! - and I got a prescriptions to treat both Lyme's disease and the infection in my hand as a safe guard.
We’re going to take an extra layover day tomorrow here in the Delaware Water Gap. It is a very nice place to be. We are tarping on the yard of The Church of the Mountain. Tonight, they have a free classical concert in their yard. We’re also right next door to a well known jazz club, The Deer Head Inn, where we enjoyed a glass of red wine last night and enjoyed some good music. We’re being well taken care of and we’re hoping that this infection subsides and we’re able to be on our way before too long. That’s it.
Over and Out.
(Phone Message Transcribed by Bethany)
Update from Delaware Water Gap, Pennsylvania.
Today is July 21, 2007. Lauren and I arrived in water gap in the early afternoon and we’re enjoying the accommodations at the Church of the Mountain which offers a nice place to stay for hikers. We are extremely proud of ourselves because we reached the Pennsylvania border today! That means that we are nearing the end of the rocky portion of our trip. 
The last few days have been ridiculously rocky at points causing us to laugh a bit. There were several points were Lauren just about lost it, but we supported each other and we helped each other get through this time.
On another slightly disappointing note, my left hand is very swollen; I most likely have Lyme disease which is a serious but not urgent condition. We are going to be taking Sunday and Monday to rest and visit a family doctor and hopefully I’ll be able to start up on the antibiotics on Monday. I did have a deer tick on my hand one day, and that’s the spot where my hand is swelling up. My fingers look like sausages.
Chalk that up for an additional inconvenience but it’s not anything that feels like a major setback at this point. I don’t exactly remember the mileage at the gap but I believe that we’ve covered roughly 1250 miles of the AT this far and we are happy to be taking a zero day at the cute town of Delaware Water Gap.
The weather has been surprisingly cool and mild providing gorgeous hiking conditions making it pleasant to hike this portion of drought and limited water. I’m feeling tired, it’s a little after 9:30 pm, and I’m looking to get some sleep. I appreciate everybody’s concern and I hope to post once I know the diagnosis.
Over and Out.
Water is one of our most essential needs on the trail. We each require approximately 1 or more gallons of drinking water per day which is over 8 pounds and would certainly be a considerable load to carry. Since water is relatively plentiful on the A.T. we don't need to carry it all at once. Typically we only carry 1 quart (1 litre) or less and move between water sources where refill our bottles and "camel up" (drink as much as we can, usually a full bottle).
At the beginning of the trail, within the first mile after leaving the terminus at Springer Mountain, there is a shelter with a water source. At that spring, while filling our bottles a sign caught my attention...
The sign had the typical strong warning for hikers to treat or filter all water on the Appalachian Trail because the quality of the water can not be guaranteed. What surprised me as I looked closer was that the sign was dually endorsed by the U.S. Forest Service and by one of the largest manufacturers of water filters. Go figure.
As hikers, we have been drilled to believe that giardia is lurking at every turn, and that this life giving blessing is actually something to be fearful of.
The greatest downside for us in filtering or treating water is not the time, weight or effort required to obtain it. The greater liability is that it encourages us to drink significantly less than we normally would, which leads injuries related to dehydration.
Although we are clearly in the minority, Lauren and I choose to drink our water directly from the source - untreated and unfiltered. We are very selective about where we fill up, we hike from spring to spring and evaluate the surrounding area on our map - and if in doubt we choose to move on a few more miles. However, we do carry Aqua-Mira as a backup treatment and have used it on occasion. Namely, The Great Smoky Mountains, where horses and millions of people share the A.T., and the handful of streams where we had no alternative sources.
Obviously we are taking a risk, but it is one we are willing to take, especially since studies have pointed to poor hygiene as a greater culprit of giardia. For that we carry gel alcohol (like Purell) and use it after answering nature's call or signing the hiker register.
If planning for a hike of your own, please weigh the options for yourself and make your own decision. We just wanted to give an accurate picture of our experience on the Appalachian Trail so far.
- - - -
Thanks to The Crow for her correspondence several months ago on this topic.
